Editorial · 2026

Night Bakers

Three nights with the bakers at Al Khair Bakery in Satwa, from the first oven at 2am to the last van out at seven.

Baker dusting flour over dough at dawn

The commission

The story

Fold asked for a portrait of one bakery that could stand for all of them. Fadi Khoury has run his family’s bakery in Satwa for twenty-two years, baking khubz, manakeesh and rolls for half the cafeterias in the neighbourhood, and he agreed on one condition: nobody gets in the way of the ovens.

So for the first two nights I didn’t take a single picture. I swept, I carried trays, I learned when to stand back. By the third night the camera was just another thing in the room, and that’s when the pictures came: the flour hanging in the tungsten light, the first rack of rolls coming out at half four, Fadi’s nephew asleep on the flour sacks for ten minutes before the vans arrived.

Everything was shot in available light with two small cameras, no flash, so the bakery looks the way it feels at that hour. The story ran over twelve pages in Fold’s spring food issue, and two of the frames are now open-edition prints.

From the shoot

Tap any photograph to see it larger.

  • Baker dusting flour over dough in tungsten light
    Fadi Khoury, first batch of the night
  • Baker loading loaves into a deck oven with a long wooden peel
    Sixty loaves a load, four loads a night
  • Two bakers wheeling a rack of cooling bread through a narrow bakery
    The first rack out, rolls for the cafeterias
  • Baker resting on a flour sack at the back door at dawn with a mug of tea
    The only break before the vans arrive
nights on location
3
pages in print
12
photographs delivered
46
Juno spent two nights in the bakery before she lifted a camera. By the third, the bakers had forgotten she was there, and it shows in every frame.
Rania HaddadPicture editor, Fold magazine

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